2008 f150 lug nut torque

Loose lug nuts?

2023.06.08 23:56 Darisixnine Loose lug nuts?

Loose lug nuts?
Posted this on WRX and I’ve ruled out pretty much every option other than the title of this post (loose lug nut(s) ) but I wanted to see if anyone on here possibly knew 100% what it could be. 2013 WRX makes this noise from what I assume to be the driver side front wheel when driving. It doesn’t make this noise at idle
submitted by Darisixnine to subaru [link] [comments]

2023.06.08 23:38 kreebob 2023 Model 3 RWD w/ No Upgrades - 1 Month In - My Feelings

I've been noticing a number of folks on this sub who are on the fence about the purchase of a Tesla Model 3 RWD. I purchased and took delivery of mine 3-4 weeks ago and wanted to share my thoughts.
To start, I go the most basic version you can get. Pearl White with 18" Aero Wheels and Black Partial-Premium interior. I'm coming from a 2009 Mercedes E Class so this is my first car purchase is over a decade. Even at the most basic version of the model, the cabin experience is amazing. Quiet, comfortable, and everything feels high quality. You get 95% of the same features of a M3P but for a much lower price. From the Tesla app, to the charging experience, to the exterior look and feel, the car has exceeded my expectations in every facet.
This is also considered the "slow" model but you could've fooled me. My favorite thing about this car is the instant acceleration and smooth-as-glass ride. It is indeed like a small space ship. And for the money, after rebates, is a major value. Prior to looking at a Model 3 I was testing out more conventional brands hybrids and they were all just MEH at best. Cut to my first test drive of a Model 3 RWD and I was instantly sold. And when you factor all of the federal and tax incentives you get with the Tesla over a conventional hybrid, it really is a no-brainer.
I went from driving hardly at all, to looking for excuses to get in my car every day. With the home charger installed, I feel like I'm somehow cheating the system.
Do I regret not paying more for 19" wheels? NO. I love the fact that I can go Aero Covers or Mag wheels depending on my mood. I bought lug nut and center wheel caps to give a sportier look when off.
Do I regret not paying more for a different color? NO. I didn't realize the white finish is actually slightly pearlescent, not flat white. With the black trim and blank tint, it's downright slutty.
Do I regret not paying more for the Long Range battery? NO. I have the charger in my garage which gives me 272 miles of range which is far more than I'll ever need between my house an a Supercharger. The LFP battery in the RWD is also a bit of a bonus as I'm learning because of it's longevity and ability to charge to 100% consistently.
Do I regret not paying more for the faster Performance version? NO. I'm already pushing the speed limit every time I get in it and having a blast. Anything faster and I'd probably get in trouble.
Do I regret not paying more for a white interior? NO. I have kids.
Do I regret not paying more for Advanced Autopilot or FSD? NO. I will add these later when I feel the software is further along.
TL;DR: Been driving a basic White 2023 M3 RWD and it's the coolest car I've ever owned.
submitted by kreebob to TeslaModel3 [link] [comments]

2023.06.08 17:05 DeplorableBadger Deal on Impact Wrench?

Anyone have a deal they have seen for the Mid Torque 1/2” M18 Impact Wrench? Put off buying one for like a year cause I didn’t “need it” and then I wasted 1.5 hours last night trying to get a nut off my lawn mower….
submitted by DeplorableBadger to MilwaukeeTool [link] [comments]

2023.06.08 16:09 Masymas310 3 phase connection failure

208 3 phase 300A feed to marina smoked at a connection point. - All three phases showed heat damage. Neutral was ok. Main fuse did not open. No sign of line to line shorts. Wire is crimped to copper lugs. Connection made seasonally by bolting copper lugs together with steel nuts bolts and washers and wrapping with heavy tape. This method has been used for several years but failed early this season. Most damage was to the through bolt/nuts (melting) and surrounding lug. I’m thinking the copper lugs we’re not cleaned well and /or possibly under torqued. Opinions? Also, Is there a better way to make this connection like this each year?
submitted by Masymas310 to AskElectricians [link] [comments]

2023.06.08 15:29 clb1016 [WTS] Perroz Plate Carrier; P365XL Grip Module, 15rd Mags, Griffin Threaded Barrel; Complete 16" midlength upper; misc AR parts and things; Price drops and new things added!

Timestamp: https://imgur.com/a/l4DNkYK
Photos are in the timestamp album above.
Perroz Low Profile Slick Plate Carrier, Large, Ranger Green
Includes the laser-cut cumberbund, 3x 5.56 mag pouch, and slim shoulder pads. Size large. Some salt but perfectly functional. $250 shipped $225 shipped $200 shipped
P365XL OEM Grip Module and Mags
OEM grip module, 2x OEM 15 round mags, Talon Granulate on everything. $125 shipped $115 shipped Will take $80 shipped for the two mags, $30 shipped for the grip module, or $100 shipped for all
Griffin Armament P365XL Threaded Barrel with Micro-Carry Comp
I have fired exactly 55 rounds through this, picked it up on here a while ago; previous owner said they had <200 rounds through it. In good shape, very minimal salt. $135 shipped $125 shipped $115 shipped sold to u/Foxtrot4321
FN Takeoff M4 Stock
This was taken off of my SRP G2 as soon as I came home from my FFL. $25 shipped
Magpul AFG, M-Lok
Very little salt, is as you would expect. $15 shipped
Vortex Crossfire II
Minimal salt, I think the only firearm this has ever been on and actually been fired is my Ruger 22/45 Lite. Comes with both mounts, the star hex key thing, battery installed, and rubber lens cap. $100 shipped
16" Complete Upper
There's a lot to go over here. In ( ) beside each part, I am going to list the approximate new price for reference. I tried to check at least 3 vendors for every item and went with the lowest advertised price.
The total cost to build this upper buying new parts, before any shipping and/or tax, would be approximately $646. It will include the pictured 5 slot poly M-Lok rail. I am asking $450 shipped with the BCG and charging handle, not looking to separate these unless person who buys upper does not want them. If you want any of the add ons below (such as the rail covers), or something like the Crossfire II above, let me know and we can see what we can work out.
Housekeeping Notes, PLEASE READ
Everything is sold "or best offer". Comment with "dibs", "pm", etc and then PM me; chats will be ignored. "Dibs" implies you are taking it at the above listed price. As of this time, I am not willing to accept any forms of payment other than PayPal unless the buyer has flair that is equal to or greater than mine. As typical, no notes on PayPal.
Another note: I work third shift. I go to bed around 1200/noon EST and sleep until 2000/8pm EST, give or take.
submitted by clb1016 to GunAccessoriesForSale [link] [comments]

2023.06.08 14:07 dreftzg [Daily News] Orient Star Is A Skeleton At 1/5 Of The Price Of A Zenith, Bremont Releases Third Watch For The Williams F1 Team, Accutron Spaceview Gets First Major Update And The Vaer G5 Meridian Is A Flier GMT Watch Below The $1,000 Mark

It's Thursday and let's just get straight into it - make sure to check out the Vaer, interested in your thoughts.

What's new

Orient Star Will Sell You A Skeleton Watch At 1/5 Of The Price Of A Zenith
Just the other day I wrote about the Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton, a wonderful skeletonized watch. It’s modern, it shows off a legendary movement, but it will also set you back a bit over EUR 11,000, which is a lot of money, no matter what budget you are shopping in. What if there was an a more affordable option out there? Maybe it didn’t have the super high end finishing of the Zenith or a legendary movement, but it looked just as cool and cost less than a fifth of the Zenith? Well, say hello to the Orient Star Avant-Garde Skeleton.
Orient started out in the 50s and has been part of the Seiko Epson Corporation since 2009. Orient Star, however, is the higher-end of the brand, which in 2016 shocked the market with a skeletonised model. Orient Star was known for their classical watches, so this was a huge departure. They updated it once in 2022 and are now introducing two new Avant-Garde Skeleton models as part of its Sports Collection with an automatic movement and a 60-hour power reserve.
The two models differ in the case material - you can have them in stainless steel or black plated steel - but they share the case specs. 42.3mm wide and 12.4mm thick, with a water resistance of 100 meters and bezels with hexagonal screws. The steel model has a combination of brushed surfaces with Sallaz mirror finishings (comparable to Grand Seiko’s Zaratsu polishing), adding accents and emphasising the solid metallic feel of the watch and bracelet.
Composed of two layers, the upper and lower plates of the dial are distinguished by different colours and finishings. The upper plate holds the luminous indices that project over the movement, and the lower plate is designed to protect the upper plate from shocks and deformation. Like the earlier model, the dial features a power reserve indicator at noon, a small seconds counter at 6 o’clock and a view of the balance wheel with its silicon escapement. The hour and minute hands are wider, sportier, and treated with luminous material.
Powering the Orient Star Avant-Garde Skeleton is the automatic, in-house calibre F8F64. Decorated with Geneva stripes, the partially openworked base plate reveals the bright blue silicon escapement peeking out just to the left of the small seconds and it’s rated at +15/-5 seconds per day, with a 60-hour power reserve. The stainless steel model comes with a steel bracelet; the black-coated steel watch on a black Cordura Ballistic nylon strap.
The retail price is EUR 2,000. Looking at photos of the watch, I’m not sure it lives up to that price. I would love to handle one live. However, this looks close enough to the Zenith, which is EUR 11,000+.
Saint Laurent Redesigns The Cult Girard-Perregaux Digital Quartz Watch, Gives It Black Ceramic And PVD Titanium
While Girard-Perregaux is most known for their higher end Swiss mechanical watches, at one time they were pioneers in the era of digital watch. Back in 1971, it made waves with the Caliber GP-350, a quartz movement that set the universal market standard for frequency. Following that was the Caliber 395 and that’s the movement that GP put in the Casquette, an unusual watch even at the time - it was a black geometric hunk on your wrist that displayed the time at the push of a button on a tiny screen on the front facing side of the watch.
The Casquete came in three materials, Makrolon (which was a black composite), stainless steel and gold plated. It was only made for two years - 1976 and 1978 - and during that time 8,200 pieces were made. The original is still a desired item among collectors, which GP recognized and did a recreation of the watch last year. While remaining fully retro, the reissue is powered by the vastly more efficient GP-03980 that displays hours, minutes, seconds, the day and the date, the month, the year, a chronograph, a second time zone, and a secret date.
Now, there’s a new version of the Casquete, one redesigned by Saint Laurent Creative Director Anthony Vaccarello for the Saint Laurent Rive Droite line. Vaccarello gives the watch a radical upgrade in materials, as the case is now made out of black ceramic and black PVD-treated grade 5 titanium. It’s sleek, it’s retro, chunky and dramatic, all the things Vaccarello is known for.
The watch is released under the Rive Droite imprint, a series of objects that are sold exclusively in two stores located in Paris and LA. This means that it will also be available exclusively at Saint Laurent Rive Droite stores in Paris and Los Angeles, as well as online via the official Saint Laurent Rive Droite store, in selected countries only. That, combined with the fact that this will be a limited edition of only 100 pieces, means you aren’t very likely to see one in the flesh. Which isn’t that much of a shame because I’m not sure it would be easy to justify the $6,700 price tag.
Bremont Releases Their Third Limited Watch For The Williams F1 Team
Formula 1 racing is an incredibly expensive sport. It was, at least, until 2021 when the organization implemented a budget cap of about $135 million. It’s still expensive, yes, but before the cap teams were known to spend up to half a billion dollars per year to push as hard as possible to win championships. The money for this endeavour comes from Formula 1, the organization, but this is just a small amount distributed to every team. The rest has to be raised from sponsors, and raising $135 million from sponsors is not easy.
Because of the high costs of the sport, the sponsorships are equally as high. It is estimated that the cheapest sponsorship is $1 million per year, an ammount that doesn’t get you a lot - surely doesn’t get you a sticker on the car, and it’s rumoured that Rolex is paying up to $50 million to be the official timing partner of the organization. So, I was pretty shocked three years ago to see that Bremont, the independent British watchmaker, sponsored Williams, the legendary British racing team, to a tune high enough to get a prominent sticker on the car. I had no idea Bremont was doing that good. Good on them.
To mark this sponsorship, Bremont has already created two limited edition watches and is just now releasing the third. Since both companies are very British, it’s no surprise that they are doing so just a month before the British Grand Prix at Silverstone. It’s the Bremont WR-45, a limited-edition chronograph that is inspired by this year’s Williams Racing F1 car, the FW-45.
The watch has Bremont’s signature three-piece “Trip-Tick” construction, it’s made from stainless steel with a black DLC finish and measures 43mm in diameter by 16mm-thick, with 22mm lugs and an overall lug-to-lug profile of 50mm. Despite the fact that the crown and pushers that operate the chronograph don’t screw down, it has a 100 meter water resistance. Unlike previous Bremont Williams Racing watches, the dial fitted to the new WR-45 is black to match its case, and it has a tri-compax configuration and a date window within the 6 o’clock sub dial. The white register at 9 o’clock features a light blue hand and serves as a running seconds indicator for the time, while the other two sub-dials are fitted with white-finished hands. Additionally, the hours counter features a thin three-color ring in light blue, dark blue, and white surrounding its perimeter, and this serves as a subtle nod to the official colors of the Williams Racing F1 team.
Inside the watch is the brand’s Caliber BE-53AV automatic chronograph movement based on the proven ETA/Valjoux 7753. It has a frequency of 28,800vph (4 Hz) while offering users a power reserve of approximately 56 hours, while the rotor has been skeletonized to look like the wheels of the Williams F1 car. The watch comes on a black two-piece alcantara strap.
This will be a limited edition of 244 pieces and every watch is accompanied with a genuine wheel nut taken from one of the Williams Racing cars. It’s priced at $6,595.
The Accutron Spaceview Gets First Major Update With Spaceview Evolution, But Keeps The Very Cool Electrostatic Movement
Accutron is one of the most familiar names in watchmaking. This Bulova model participated in the space race and was, reportedly, narrowly pushed out by the Omega Speedmaster to be the official NASA watch that will be worn on the moon, but the Bulova Accutron remained a beloved watch by many astronauts and was used in space. That’s why it was a bit puzzling when Bulova in 2020 decided to spin of the Accutron into its own brand. But the puzzle was put aside when Accutron introduced the gorgeous Spaceview 2020 with an open-worked dial and inspired by the original 1960s Spaceview. Now Accutron is introducing two new models called Evolution that do exactly that - evolve the Spaceview.
Just like the 2020 model, the Spaceview Evolution watches are housed in a 43.5mm polished stainless steel case that is 15.9mm thick. Where it differs from the previous model is in the movement. Not the movement they use, but rather the orientation of the movement - the entire thing is shifter 30 degrees, moving the crown to 2 o’clock, giving the watch a completely new look.
Accutron currently offers two versions of the Spaceview Evolution timepiece. One with a smoke-gray open dial, darkened metal outer ring, silver-toned hands, and a matte-black alligator strap. The other also includes a smoke-gray open dial paired with a silver-toned outer ring, metallic blue hands, and a shiny blue alligator strap. Both straps are genuine American alligator and are finished with double-press deployant clasps.
Inside the Spaceview Evolution watches is Accutron’s proprietary electrostatic energy movement. Essentially, the movement is home to twin turbines that rotate at rapid speeds with the motion of your wrist. Those turbines are located between two electrodes, which serve to capture the electrostatic energy created by the turbines and send them to an accumulator. The stored energy in the accumulator then powers two motors: an electrostatic motor (a world’s first) that drives the gliding seconds hand and a step motor that drives the hour and minute hands. The duo of motors are synchronized via integrated circuits and provide an accuracy rating of +/- 5 seconds a month.
The movement also has a power-saving mode, which kicks into gear after five minutes of inactivity with the second hand automatically halting at 12 o’clock. Although the seconds hand stays in place, the watch will continue to keep time as the hour and minute hands continue to move. To stop the power-saving mode and reactivate the seconds hand, you simply have to swing your arm up and down for about five seconds.
The Accutron Spaceview Evolution watches are priced at $3,950 and are available immediately for purchase.
The New Vaer G5 Meridian Is A Flier GMT Watch Well Below The $1,000 Mark
At the moment, my favorite GMT movement is a highly modified Miyota 9015 which the microbrand Arken calls the ARK-9015DT and uses in their Alterum. It’s a crazy movement that works unlike any other GMT movment. Rotating the hands clockwise moves the entire handset, including the GMT hand, as well as both AM/PM indicator discs. However, moving the handset in the opposite direction will lock the GMT hand and its corresponding AM/PM indicator (left of the dial) allowing you to set the time difference between your local and home times. This means you can set the minutes to any time and just rotate the hour hand.
Other than that movement and, obviously, in house ones, there seems to be a consensus that it’s hard to beat the recently introduced Miyota Cal. 9075 movement which is an affordable option for those who want a “flier” or “true” GMT, which allows for an independently adjustable local 12-hour hand. And this exactly has been a request from millions of collectors and watch enthusiasts. The movement also allows microbrands like the LA based Vaer to slap these movements into watches that look great and are really affordable.
Vaer’s most recent watch is the G5 Meridian GMT and it’s an intresting proposition. At first glance, the G5 looks identical to their G7. That could be because it comes in a 39mm stainless case without a crown guard and 200 meter water resistance or the fact that they come in pretty much the same four colors - two models with black dials and either red/blue or black/blue bezels, along with an all-black PVD variant, plus a third stainless steel option that is fitted with both a green dial and a green bezel. However, while Vaer’s G7 GMT is a Swiss-made timepiece powered by the Sellita SW330-2 and priced just above the thousand-dollar mark, the Vaer G5 Meridian GMT is an American-assembled version that runs on the Japanese Miyota 9075.
The watch comes on two different straps or bracelets that connect to the 20mm lugs with integrated quick-release springbars. Since the G5 GMT was designed to be used in the water, a black FKM rubber tropic strap is the standard included configuration, as it is the most water-friendly option available for the model. For the secondary strap/bracelet option, buyers have the option of either a simple NATO or a nylon single pass strap — or opting for one of the premium leather straps or stainless steel bracelets in Oyster and Jubillee designs.
The official price of the Vaer G5 Meridian GMT is $799 or $849 if you opt for one of the premium strap/bracelet options. That’s a fantastic price that gives you more functionality for a traveler.

On hand - a selection of reviews

Review Of The ProTek Series 1010, The Official Watch Of The United States Marine Corps
Hands-on With The The Delma Shell Star Titanium That Sheds Both Size And Weight
In-Depth Reveiw of The Horage Lensman 2 Exposure — A Watch With A Photographic Cheat Sheet

Watch Worthy - A look at an offbeat, less known watch you might actually like

The RZE Aspirare launches the brand into yet unexplored waters
Up until now, RZE have been quite conscious of their case sizes pleasing the majority of modern collectors who prefer conservative diameters. Their largest watch was the now-discontinued RZE Valour Chronograph at 42mm, with the sold-out Fortitude coming in second at 41mm. The new RZE Aspirare is bullish with its 44mm diameter, and untamed with a 53mm lug-to-lug that will absolutely demand some bravery to wear if you don’t have large wrists. Although the RZE philosophy has catered to the adventurous, the Aspirare is designed to be their most rugged project yet.
People loved the Seiko Alpinist giveaway! That's why I'm doing a new one. This time, we're giving away four Hamilton Khaki Field Automatics in a color of your choice. Head on over to the newsletter if you would like to enter.
If you would like to receive some additional watch-adjacent content, as well as this news overview, every morning Monday-Friday in the form of a newsletter feel free to subscribe. However, there is absolutely no need for you to subscribe, as all the news from the newsletter is posted here. It is only if you want to receive a couple of daily links that are not strictly watch-related and want to get this news overview in your inbox.
submitted by dreftzg to Watches [link] [comments]

2023.06.08 13:39 backtoreddit4can POI Affected by Barrel Nut Torque

Can overtorquing a barrel nut cause POI to shift to the right and high? I have an Areo Precision 16 inch upper thats printing so high right I cant zero my ACOG and I’m trying to decide if I need to rebarrel it or if it was just improperly assembled. I zeroed the ACOG on 2 other rifles to check that it wasn’t the problem and it wasn’t.
I reached out to Areo and they said they would send me a new barrel nut and it might have been somebody applying too much torque to the barrel nut when assembling it. It has an atlas free float handguard and the barrel is sitting pretty close to the center but it is around 1/10 of a centimeter tilted toward the right side.
I just don’t understand hand even too much torque could affect the barrel POI.
submitted by backtoreddit4can to AeroPrecision [link] [comments]

2023.06.08 09:22 Derpygoras Another "what is making this noise" question

Sorry, I don't have any sound files. S211 (wagon) 2008 RWD.
I hear a faint clunking from the rear at times, as if something would be rolling around and bonking into walls. It does not occur upon cornering, or going over bumps. It seems more to happen upon acceleration or braking, but not consistently.
It is not loose items rolling around the cargo, I have removed everything and the clunking persists.
It does not seem to be the transmission/rear differential, because then it should happen every time I lay on positive or negative torque, no?
It does not seem to be the exhaust, I find nothing wrong when I look. The pegs it hanged on that are stuck into rubber bits corroded off (muffler is stainless, pipes and brackets are not = galvanic corrosion, brilliant! /s) so I have secured it with stainless pipe clamps. It did not make a noise after that, everything is still taut, so I don't see how that could be it.
The car recently passed inspection without any comments about the rear axis, and they do put it on a pneumatic shaking thing to see how the suspension is doing.
There is nothing wrong with the air bellows rear, they are quite new.
I suspect bushings of some kind, but my capacity for detecting such is limited. I tug and shake whatever arms and components I see, and they look to the eye to be solid.
So my question boils down to "Does anyone recognize this?"
submitted by Derpygoras to W211 [link] [comments]

2023.06.08 03:49 Excellent_One_7557 Sheared lug lock

Sheared lug lock
Noticed one of my wheel locks was missing (probably wasn’t torqued to spec bc I just got tires rotated) so I went to the dealer and bought a new set. Get home, use my torque wrench to tighten the first lug to 87 ft lbs as specified and the lock stripped. Now I have a stuck lug and have no idea how to get it off or if the dealer will replace them free of charge? Any suggestions?
submitted by Excellent_One_7557 to Miata [link] [comments]

2023.06.08 03:37 Small-Promotion1063 Wheel hub assembly torque specifications

So I drive a 2016 nissan frontier desert runner 4.0 2wd. I was able to find a repair manual for free on cardigan. Not sure how accurate that repair manual could be because it states that the torque specifications for the 4 bolts holding the wheel hub in place should be 44 foot pounds. That seems ridiculously low considering that those 4 bolts are on the larger side and hold the wheel hub on the nuckle and there is no axel nut to assist with this since it's a 2wd front wheel hub assembly repair. Any advice on how tight I should make these bolts? I plan on doing this repair tomorrow and would rather not have my wheel fly off going 70mph on the interstate. Any help would be much appreciated.
submitted by Small-Promotion1063 to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]

2023.06.08 02:56 This_Trackted_Driver Aftermarket Coilovers.

The little tiny hex hole in the top, to supposedly stop the shaft from spinning while you do up the top nut... it allows about as much torque through it as doing up an interior plastic trim piece before stripping and being useless. Thought I needed a new strut mount, but turned out the nit had just backed off like a half inch instead. Easy fix, but it's still basically just finger tight. I imagine next time I'm in there I'll grind a slot in the top to use a flat screwdriver instead. Any better ideas?
submitted by This_Trackted_Driver to AskMechanics [link] [comments]

2023.06.08 01:02 careful_jon Pops when starting or stopping

214k miles on my 2010 Prius. I have been hearing a series of pops coming from the front end when I start moving, or slow to a stop. It doesn’t seem related to brakes because I hear it when I start moving. The wheels have been off and on a few times during my process of assessing the issue, so it’s not loose lug nuts.
I have already replaced sway bar links and strut assemblies. I’m feeling like throwing in the towel and taking it to a mechanic, but thought I’d see if anyone here has had a similar experience. If it would help, I could add a video of the sound.
Any ideas?
submitted by careful_jon to prius [link] [comments]

2023.06.08 00:14 Unlucky_Bobcat_2286 Front break rotor destroyed by Meineke.

A couple of weeks ago (may 22) my roommate had both of her back rotors replaced by Meineke. After a couple of days she started to notice a shake when driving the car. The shake got gradually worse until it was unable to be driven. Today(June 7) we took the vehicle back to the same place, where they said the front left rotor needed to be replaced. They claimed they never touched the front tires, but it was very clear that the lug nuts in the front left tire were not properly tightened. I am not wanting to pay the $700 it will cost to replace the rotor as it was clearly their fault, but I am unsure how to proceed. I have already talked to somebody there, and they claimed they hadn’t touched the front wheels. Another detail is that it had been driven around 500 miles since the last visit.
submitted by Unlucky_Bobcat_2286 to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]

2023.06.07 23:01 SynkkaMetsa Hopefully this is relevant here (SPRish build AR accuracy question). Will changing the handguard on my AR potentially affect accuracy? (same barrel nut, but barrel removal required for different mounting bracket)

So I have a DDM4v7 Pro which I've found the ammo it likes and am quite satisfied with its performance. However, I really dislike the handguard and want to change it to a DD quad rail, similar to their mk12 (and yes mainly because of aesthetics).
However to put the DDM4 rail on, I have to swap the current rail's mounting bracket which is wedged into the barrel nut, basically it requires removal of the barrel assembly. My worry is that after removal and installing the new one that accuracy may be impacted.
I also don't have the tools to do it myself (no vice, no action ride, no workbench, no torque wrench capable of 55ft/lbs) So I would have to have a shop do it for me...which is mostly where my worry is I suppose.
So, am I worrying too much? AR barrels seem pretty straightforward with their installation, but I'm just uncertain that if I did change it that it could noticeably affect accuracy.
submitted by SynkkaMetsa to longrange [link] [comments]

2023.06.07 22:53 CA101 The Elusive Spare Tire Kit

Hey All!
Just bought a 2023 Sonata Limited Hybrid only to discover there was no spare tire or kit, only the tire repair kit. There is a space for the spare tire, but my local dealers have been unable to locate either a spare tire or a kit for my car (Their catalogue ends with the 2018 repair kit). Looking at other alternatives such as buying a used tire from a tire store and a kit from an older model but hesitant because I'm not sure the lug nut size is the same (21mm for older models and unknown for my). Has anyone had a solution for this problem?
TLDR; My car didn't come with a spare tire kit and looking for solutions.
submitted by CA101 to Hyundai [link] [comments]

2023.06.07 22:41 deerashad7 Tires and Wheels

I’m am currently shopping for tires and wheels for my 2005 Elantra GT hatchback; I definitely want to change the rims and am thinking about buying tires with increased width and height , Wanted to know what’s the best place online and physical to shop for the 4 lug nutted wheels ?
submitted by deerashad7 to HyundaiElantra [link] [comments]

2023.06.07 20:35 NickAdmiral [WTS] [WTT] Geiselle, Burris XTR ii, Strike Eagle, Trijicon Rmr cc

Timestamp: https://i.imgur.com/y0k8PGz.jpg
Good afternoon, I’ve got some items here for sale today or for trade depending on what you’re into no offer is unreasonable hit me up!
Trijicon RMRcc, mounted never fired with Springfield Adapter Plate, love this optic wish it sat flush. $350
Vortex Strike Eagle 5-25 FFP EBR 7C MOA BNIB never mounted was planning to put in on my rifle but got a mark 5hd instead. $750 $650
Burris XTR - II 5-25 FFP SCR MOA BNIB mocked up on rifle never torqued down, also got another mark 5hd instead. $750 $600
Tanodized Upper receiver, I believe it’s Anchor, catch and release from here $160 is what I paid.
Geissele DDC Upper Receiver, it’s beautiful it matches one of my lowers pretty close however I do want a much more golden colored upper receiver or like burnt sienna buffer tube for reference in album. I am looking to trade for another DDC Upper receiver. $250 <- this is what I will let it go for but I don’t want to sell it I just want to trade this.
Things I’m looking for: DDC Upper Receiver (will purchase or trade for $160ish?) 6mm ARC Barrel (18-20) PWS ratcheting castle nut/ endplate Luna Black Upper Receiver
PayPal Preferred, No chats, Comment before PM
submitted by NickAdmiral to GunAccessoriesForSale [link] [comments]

2023.06.07 20:30 khoafraelich789 Used Car Guide: 1996-2010 Dodge Viper

Used Car Guide: 1996-2010 Dodge Viper
5 tips to find a first-class example of a secondhand Dodge Viper.

I’ve got a Dodge Viper problem. Despite their horrifying fuel consumption, restricted outward visibility, leg-singeing rocker panels, and an exhaust note like a hot-rod UPS truck, I’ve enjoyed driving two of these machines for the better part of 10 years and about 65,000 kilometres to date.

My first Viper was a 2000 GTS Coupe. My childhood dream car, we spent five years and about 45,000 kilometres together driving around town, going on road trips, lapping various tracks, and attending car shows and the like.

About four years ago I traded this unit in for a 2008 Dodge Viper SRT-10 Coupe. We’ve done about 20,000 kilometres together, partaking in a similar range of activities.

I’ve had zero mechanical problems associated with the driveline in either of my cars, and little more than the odd electronic hiccup resulting from a weak battery or wonky sensor. I’ve owned a lot of cars, and my two Vipers have been among the most reliable — second only to my 1993 Nissan 240SX.

The key success factor here is that I’ve had both units checked over fully by a qualified ‘Viper Tech’ in a dealer setting, on my dime, before purchase. In both cases, this pre-purchase checkup was worth the investment. For my first Viper, the inspection revealed thousands worth of upcoming repair- and replacement parts which helped me negotiate a much better deal; on my second car, it picked up a dead trunk-release button which the selling dealership fixed on their dime, and also confirmed that this car was in otherwise excellent shape.

To be clear: the best thing you can do before buying a used Dodge Viper is to make arrangements to have it seen by a Viper-trained technician in a dealer setting.

Still, after a decade of V-10 Mopar motoring, I’ve also come up with some additional tips to share with potential used Dodge Viper shoppers, especially those considering a vintage like mine — that is, the second- to fourth-generation cars.

Following these tips can help you enjoy a more trouble-free driving experience and avert potential headaches or surprises with your new toy.

Door hinges

I’ve found the door hinges in both of my Vipers to be quite fussy, and I’m not alone.

In my 2000 GTS, the doors seemed to sag with repeated use over time. The driver’s door hinge eventually needed to be readjusted multiple times to prevent the door from striking the body when closing. The out-of-alignment door hinge also caused damage to the weather seals around the door, resulting in a small water leak.

The hinge can be loosened, adjusted, and fastened back into place, but the process is frustrating and somewhat complicated if you’re not the most mechanically-inclined (like me). Professional help may be the best course of action if the Viper you’re considering seems to be suffering from saggy doors; it’s not a difficult job for someone who knows what they’re doing.

My 2008 Viper SRT-10 is exhibiting similar symptoms this year. The driver’s door has begun emitting a loud creak when opening fully (or closing), and lubrication of the hinge hasn’t helped. The door is rubbing somewhere, and the hinge needs to be readjusted.

Note that leaving this issue unchecked can cause collateral damage to the weather seals (pricey) and window glass (pricier), so you’ll want to address it as soon as you notice any warning signs.

These warnings include doors that seem to stick during some portion of their movement, doors that don’t close properly with a light push, doors that fail to engage the striker properly or even bounce back open, doors that require slamming to latch shut, or any used Viper whose door-mounted weather seals are cracked, ripped, or otherwise visibly damaged.

In sum: be sure the doors open, close and latch without undue force or noise, and that all weather seals are intact and in solid shape.

Powertrain stresses
To prevent undue wrenching of the door hinge, I always start the engine after the doors are closed.

Firing up the Viper’s big V-10 twists the car back and forth (it’s all that torque), but can also wrench on the heavy doors and their small hinges, which seems to shift things out place in quick order. With the doors closed at engine startup, this excessive wrenching of the hinges is prevented.

Fun fact: during a tour of the Dodge Viper factory, one long-time Viper craftsman told me that the original hinge design was intended to be steel (stronger), though the engineers pushed for a lighter aluminum hinge (softer). In the day, he figured this might cause problems for some owners, and it turns out he was right.

“The fifth-generation cars use a different hinge, and the doors are much lighter, since they’re made from an aluminum film that’s shaped by air in a mould” he said.

Wheel alignment

Dodge Vipers have, I figure, a somewhat unfounded reputation for dodgy handling and being difficult to control. In my opinion, these problems are mainly driver-related (not car-related), but that’s a topic for a different story.

Of course, the Viper’s steam-roller tires do try and follow every nook, cranny, and tar-strip on the road, which means the car often seems to be squirming and shuffling even as you drive along in a straight line.

Still, don’t underestimate the difference that a proper wheel alignment can make. I recently had one performed in a dealer setting on my 2008 for the first time, and the difference in handling, stability, and response while steering and braking were notable — especially in terms of reduced workload at the wheel. It’s easy to assume ‘this is just how Vipers handle’, though a fresh alignment instantly made my 2008 feel more precise, more responsive, and less labor-intensive to drive on the highway.

In my case, the difference was night-and-day. As an added bonus, proper alignment means that the (very pricey) tires won’t wear as quickly.

Power windows

The power windows on both of my Vipers were finicky and fussy. Compared to most cars, I found the power windows in both of my Vipers to feel and sound harsh when in use. They’ve also been the cause of various headaches, especially in my 2008.

This Viper has a feature called window indexing, a fancy way of saying that the window drops a half-inch or so when the door handle is pressed, allowing it to clear the body of the car and for the door to open and close more easily.

The indexing function on the passenger side window failed one day, meaning that opening the passenger door meant catching the upper ‘corner’ of the glass inside of the opening, contacting it and wearing down the finish. Closing the passenger door likewise resulted in contact of the window against the body in the same spot.

This can all result in wear to the vehicle’s paint, a noisier drive, and an increased likelihood of damaging the Viper’s finicky and sometimes-fragile power window hardware because of an unintended impact.

On your test drive, note that one, both, or none of the power windows may be suffering this problem, and that the problem may be sporadic in nature. I can’t offer a fix that’s worked reliably for me, though disconnecting and reconnecting the battery does typically fix the issue for a time.

On your test drive, confirm that both power windows work as expected, and be sure to carefully inspect the outer edge of the upper door opening above the window itself for signs of marking, paint damage, or scuffing that indicate contact.

Cooling system and overheating

Some owners have reported overheating of their Viper, especially in situations with high ambient temperatures, and during sustained periods of heavy-throttle driving, such as in a motorsports setting. Other owners have reported random engine overheating as a possibility from time to time, with a temperature gauge that may suddenly push towards the dangerous red zone on the coolant gauge randomly, and without warning. Many other owners have experienced no overheating issues from their Vipers.

Several factors may contribute to a Viper’s engine overheating, as well as inconsistent or seemingly random coolant-temperature fluctuations.

To protect yourself and avoid surprises, start with a pre-purchase inspection that includes the used Viper’s cooling system, including the coolant level and condition, an inspection of the water pump and surrounding area (for leaks), all hoses, the thermostat, the cooling fan(s) and associated wiring and relays, and the radiator itself.

Have a professional inspect both the engine oil and engine coolant for signs of cross-contamination, which could indicate a head-gasket problem.

On your test drive, take note of the coolant temperature gauge at various points. The needle should settle somewhere around the middle of the gauge and stay there, perhaps creeping up slightly over the halfway mark on hotter days. If the gauge suddenly climbs towards the red zone for no apparent reason, the vehicle you’re considering should be seen by a professional before you buy.

In this application, an overheating engine can be the result of a simple problem like an air bubble in the cooling system, or a serious one like a failing head gasket. You’ll want to know before you buy.

Run the Viper’s heater on your test-drive, too. If functioning properly, the heater will have no trouble pushing a lot of hot air into the Viper’s cabin once the engine is warmed up. If that’s not the case, or if the heat suddenly seems to disappear, have the system checked professionally. Some owners have successfully fixed problems by ‘burping’ air bubbles out of the cooling system. Ask a professional if you’re not sure how.

Driveline clunks

The Viper’s driveline is not a pinnacle of refinement, and certain noises and vibrations are more prominent than you may be used to. The question is which of these are normal, and which are cause for concern?

When checking out the user Viper you’re considering, quiet the cabin and listen for a few specific sounds in a few specific situations to prevent unwanted surprises.

First, place the vehicle in neutral with the engine running at idle and the clutch pedal pressed fully. Slowly release the clutch pedal, listening closely for any sign of a scraping, whirring, or grinding sound as the clutch is released. If you hear such a sound, press the clutch pedal in again to see if it goes away. The sound may seem to be coming through the floor near the driver’s feet. This sound can indicate a worn throw-out bearing, a part usually changed with the clutch.

I’ve noticed this sound on both of my Vipers. In both cases, it’s remedied by replacing the clutch, which includes a new bearing. You can drive your Viper while it’s making this noise, but if the bearing or associated hardware eventually fails, your clutch may become unusable.

You’ll also want to be on the lookout for unwanted sounds from the rear differential. The oil in this component needs to be changed regularly with a specific gear oil and a precise amount of friction-modifying additive. Using the wrong type or amount of gear oil or friction modifier can result in unfavourable consequences, including rear-axle noise. If your rear-axle oil isn’t serviced regularly by someone who knows what they’re doing, you’ll likely be hearing from your Viper’s rear end.

When driving a Viper, the differential sits just behind and beneath the driver. Though some whirring and light clunking from time to time is largely considered normal, any binding, whining, or heavy clunks — especially at low speed — can be signs of trouble.

Final Thought
These tips are designed to help test-driving shoppers more easily identify possible trouble areas reported by some owners. An attentive test-drive and shopping process that focuses on the areas above can help you find a first-class example of a secondhand 1996-2010 Dodge Viper.

Source: driving ca
submitted by khoafraelich789 to CarInformationNews [link] [comments]

2023.06.07 19:35 nevman9 Can anyone translate this to english or drop a link to some lugs?

Can anyone translate this to english or drop a link to some lugs? submitted by nevman9 to wrx_vb [link] [comments]

2023.06.07 19:32 Cali45SF Need help fitting 2022 rims on 2023 WT

Need help fitting 2022 rims on 2023 WT
I bought these rims online (said they’d fit my 2023 Colorado, they don’t). Dealership is telling me I need spacers/wheel adapters in order to fix as the lug nut spacing doesn’t match up with the ‘23. Can someone help me to better understand?
I asked the dealership if they could tell me which spacers or adapters I would need, they couldn’t tell me…so here I am with $1200 rims I can’t fit, help!
Thanks in advance
submitted by Cali45SF to chevycolorado [link] [comments]

2023.06.07 18:00 seahawksguy89 Is this wheel done for?

Is this wheel done for?
I was giving my wheels new lug nuts. It seems I got the seating on the lug nuts wrong and when torquing the nuts the wheel cracked at the socket. My question is can this be repaired or is it done for?
submitted by seahawksguy89 to Wheels [link] [comments]

2023.06.07 17:01 WranglerWarm6850 Is a torque wrench really necessary for changing a tire

Rookie question: I've heard that when changing a tire you should use a torque wrench to avoid over tightening the lug nuts. It seems a little impractical, because a torque wrench needs to be calibrated every year or so, which is difficult for the average guy to do at home.
Am I missing something?
submitted by WranglerWarm6850 to AskMechanics [link] [comments]