I've been noticing a number of folks on this sub who are on the fence about the purchase of a Tesla Model 3 RWD. I purchased and took delivery of mine 3-4 weeks ago and wanted to share my thoughts.
To start, I go the most basic version you can get. Pearl White with 18" Aero Wheels and Black Partial-Premium interior. I'm coming from a 2009 Mercedes E Class so this is my first car purchase is over a decade. Even at the most basic version of the model, the cabin experience is amazing. Quiet, comfortable, and everything feels high quality. You get 95% of the same features of a M3P but for a much lower price. From the Tesla app, to the charging experience, to the exterior look and feel, the car has exceeded my expectations in every facet.
This is also considered the "slow" model but you could've fooled me. My favorite thing about this car is the instant acceleration and smooth-as-glass ride. It is indeed like a small space ship. And for the money, after rebates, is a major value. Prior to looking at a Model 3 I was testing out more conventional brands hybrids and they were all just MEH at best. Cut to my first test drive of a Model 3 RWD and I was instantly sold. And when you factor all of the federal and tax incentives you get with the Tesla over a conventional hybrid, it really is a no-brainer.
I went from driving hardly at all, to looking for excuses to get in my car every day. With the home charger installed, I feel like I'm somehow cheating the system.
Do I regret not paying more for 19" wheels? NO. I love the fact that I can go Aero Covers or Mag wheels depending on my mood. I bought lug nut and center wheel caps to give a sportier look when off.
Do I regret not paying more for a different color? NO. I didn't realize the white finish is actually slightly pearlescent, not flat white. With the black trim and blank tint, it's downright slutty.
Do I regret not paying more for the Long Range battery? NO. I have the charger in my garage which gives me 272 miles of range which is far more than I'll ever need between my house an a Supercharger. The LFP battery in the RWD is also a bit of a bonus as I'm learning because of it's longevity and ability to charge to 100% consistently.
Do I regret not paying more for the faster Performance version? NO. I'm already pushing the speed limit every time I get in it and having a blast. Anything faster and I'd probably get in trouble.
Do I regret not paying more for a white interior? NO. I have kids.
Do I regret not paying more for Advanced Autopilot or FSD? NO. I will add these later when I feel the software is further along.
TL;DR: Been driving a basic White 2023 M3 RWD and it's the coolest car I've ever owned.

Anyone have a deal they have seen for the Mid Torque 1/2” M18 Impact Wrench? Put off buying one for like a year cause I didn’t “need it” and then I wasted 1.5 hours last night trying to get a nut off my lawn mower….

208 3 phase 300A feed to marina smoked at a connection point. - All three phases showed heat damage. Neutral was ok. Main fuse did not open. No sign of line to line shorts. Wire is crimped to copper lugs. Connection made seasonally by bolting copper lugs together with steel nuts bolts and washers and wrapping with heavy tape. This method has been used for several years but failed early this season. Most damage was to the through bolt/nuts (melting) and surrounding lug. I’m thinking the copper lugs we’re not cleaned well and /or possibly under torqued. Opinions? Also, Is there a better way to make this connection like this each year?

Timestamp: https://imgur.com/a/l4DNkYK
Photos are in the timestamp album above.
Perroz Low Profile Slick Plate Carrier, Large, Ranger Green
Includes the laser-cut cumberbund, 3x 5.56 mag pouch, and slim shoulder pads. Size large. Some salt but perfectly functional. $250 shipped $225 shipped $200 shipped
P365XL OEM Grip Module and Mags
OEM grip module, 2x OEM 15 round mags, Talon Granulate on everything. $125 shipped $115 shipped Will take $80 shipped for the two mags, $30 shipped for the grip module, or $100 shipped for all
Griffin Armament P365XL Threaded Barrel with Micro-Carry Comp
I have fired exactly 55 rounds through this, picked it up on here a while ago; previous owner said they had <200 rounds through it. In good shape, very minimal salt. $135 shipped $125 shipped $115 shipped sold to u/Foxtrot4321
FN Takeoff M4 Stock
This was taken off of my SRP G2 as soon as I came home from my FFL. $25 shipped
Magpul AFG, M-Lok
Very little salt, is as you would expect. $15 shipped
Vortex Crossfire II
Minimal salt, I think the only firearm this has ever been on and actually been fired is my Ruger 22/45 Lite. Comes with both mounts, the star hex key thing, battery installed, and rubber lens cap. $100 shipped
16" Complete Upper
There's a lot to go over here. In ( ) beside each part, I am going to list the approximate new price for reference. I tried to check at least 3 vendors for every item and went with the lowest advertised price.

• Muzzle device: Helius Tactical 1776 Brake ($17.76). I have put 0 rounds through this, got it on here a couple of years ago now. Installed with a jam nut because jam nut > crush washer. Timed properly (or the best I could get it, anyway).
  
• Barrel: Roscoe Bloodline, 16", Midlength gas, 5.56 Nato ($135). I have put 0 rounds through this. Previous owner said ~300.
  
• Gas Block: Kaw Valley adjustable gas block ($30). This has 0 rounds through it, which means it will need adjusted if purchased; you will need to remove the handguard and adjust the gas block to your buffeammunition; because of this, the handguard has not been torqued to spec yet; if you want me to do this for you using my H1 buffer and various available ammunition types I have, I can but I will charge you for it.
  
• Gas tube: Unknown, appears to be a melonite? ($15). See Rosco barrel above.
  
• Upper receiver: Aero Precision, non-M4E1 ($70). See Rosco barrel above.
  
• Handguard: Midwest Industries G4M15 ($210). This was taken off of my FN SRP G2. Very light salt. Was on the FN for <100 rounds.
  
• Dust Cover: Strike Industries Overmolded ($20). See Rosco barrel above.
  
• Forward Assist: Strike Industries "Strike" ($20). See Rosco barrel above.
  
• Charging Handle: Breek Arms Warhammer ($45). Very low salt, 0 rounds on this upper, was on my FN for <100 rounds.
  
• BCG: Toolcraft Nitride C158, w/Logo ($83). This has 0 rounds through it. It has never been installed in an upper other than this one. I bought it for this upper less than 2 weeks ago, haven't shot it yet.
  

The total cost to build this upper buying new parts, before any shipping and/or tax, would be approximately $646. It will include the pictured 5 slot poly M-Lok rail. I am asking $450 shipped with the BCG and charging handle, not looking to separate these unless person who buys upper does not want them. If you want any of the add ons below (such as the rail covers), or something like the Crossfire II above, let me know and we can see what we can work out.
ADD ONS

• Helius Tactical 1776 Brake, Stainless Steel: $10. Can include a jam nut or crush washer, but I only have black.
  
• ERGO Adjustable Gas Block set screws: $2 for each package. Bought these, ended up not needing. There is a 4 pack of set screws for the bottom of a gas block to keep in place on barrel, and 3 of the set screws to adjust the gas itself. I do not know if these are made in a "universal" size, but their website shows the necessary info.
  
• TruGlo Glock front sight tool: $5
  
• BCM M-Lok rail covers: $1 each. I have 15; please note that one single cover was cut into a 3 slot and 2 slot section to mount the AFG above, but they function just fine.
  
• FN Takeoff A2 birdcage: $5. Will include a jam nut or crush washer, whichever you prefer.
  

Housekeeping Notes, PLEASE READ
Everything is sold "or best offer". Comment with "dibs", "pm", etc and then PM me; chats will be ignored. "Dibs" implies you are taking it at the above listed price. As of this time, I am not willing to accept any forms of payment other than PayPal unless the buyer has flair that is equal to or greater than mine. As typical, no notes on PayPal.
Another note: I work third shift. I go to bed around 1200/noon EST and sleep until 2000/8pm EST, give or take.

It's Thursday and let's just get straight into it - make sure to check out the Vaer, interested in your thoughts.

What's new

1/
Orient Star Will Sell You A Skeleton Watch At 1/5 Of The Price Of A Zenith
Just the other day I wrote about the Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton, a wonderful skeletonized watch. It’s modern, it shows off a legendary movement, but it will also set you back a bit over EUR 11,000, which is a lot of money, no matter what budget you are shopping in. What if there was an a more affordable option out there? Maybe it didn’t have the super high end finishing of the Zenith or a legendary movement, but it looked just as cool and cost less than a fifth of the Zenith? Well, say hello to the Orient Star Avant-Garde Skeleton.
Orient started out in the 50s and has been part of the Seiko Epson Corporation since 2009. Orient Star, however, is the higher-end of the brand, which in 2016 shocked the market with a skeletonised model. Orient Star was known for their classical watches, so this was a huge departure. They updated it once in 2022 and are now introducing two new Avant-Garde Skeleton models as part of its Sports Collection with an automatic movement and a 60-hour power reserve.
The two models differ in the case material - you can have them in stainless steel or black plated steel - but they share the case specs. 42.3mm wide and 12.4mm thick, with a water resistance of 100 meters and bezels with hexagonal screws. The steel model has a combination of brushed surfaces with Sallaz mirror finishings (comparable to Grand Seiko’s Zaratsu polishing), adding accents and emphasising the solid metallic feel of the watch and bracelet.
Composed of two layers, the upper and lower plates of the dial are distinguished by different colours and finishings. The upper plate holds the luminous indices that project over the movement, and the lower plate is designed to protect the upper plate from shocks and deformation. Like the earlier model, the dial features a power reserve indicator at noon, a small seconds counter at 6 o’clock and a view of the balance wheel with its silicon escapement. The hour and minute hands are wider, sportier, and treated with luminous material.
Powering the Orient Star Avant-Garde Skeleton is the automatic, in-house calibre F8F64. Decorated with Geneva stripes, the partially openworked base plate reveals the bright blue silicon escapement peeking out just to the left of the small seconds and it’s rated at +15/-5 seconds per day, with a 60-hour power reserve. The stainless steel model comes with a steel bracelet; the black-coated steel watch on a black Cordura Ballistic nylon strap.
The retail price is EUR 2,000. Looking at photos of the watch, I’m not sure it lives up to that price. I would love to handle one live. However, this looks close enough to the Zenith, which is EUR 11,000+.
2/
Saint Laurent Redesigns The Cult Girard-Perregaux Digital Quartz Watch, Gives It Black Ceramic And PVD Titanium
While Girard-Perregaux is most known for their higher end Swiss mechanical watches, at one time they were pioneers in the era of digital watch. Back in 1971, it made waves with the Caliber GP-350, a quartz movement that set the universal market standard for frequency. Following that was the Caliber 395 and that’s the movement that GP put in the Casquette, an unusual watch even at the time - it was a black geometric hunk on your wrist that displayed the time at the push of a button on a tiny screen on the front facing side of the watch.
The Casquete came in three materials, Makrolon (which was a black composite), stainless steel and gold plated. It was only made for two years - 1976 and 1978 - and during that time 8,200 pieces were made. The original is still a desired item among collectors, which GP recognized and did a recreation of the watch last year. While remaining fully retro, the reissue is powered by the vastly more efficient GP-03980 that displays hours, minutes, seconds, the day and the date, the month, the year, a chronograph, a second time zone, and a secret date.
Now, there’s a new version of the Casquete, one redesigned by Saint Laurent Creative Director Anthony Vaccarello for the Saint Laurent Rive Droite line. Vaccarello gives the watch a radical upgrade in materials, as the case is now made out of black ceramic and black PVD-treated grade 5 titanium. It’s sleek, it’s retro, chunky and dramatic, all the things Vaccarello is known for.
The watch is released under the Rive Droite imprint, a series of objects that are sold exclusively in two stores located in Paris and LA. This means that it will also be available exclusively at Saint Laurent Rive Droite stores in Paris and Los Angeles, as well as online via the official Saint Laurent Rive Droite store, in selected countries only. That, combined with the fact that this will be a limited edition of only 100 pieces, means you aren’t very likely to see one in the flesh. Which isn’t that much of a shame because I’m not sure it would be easy to justify the $6,700 price tag.
3/
Bremont Releases Their Third Limited Watch For The Williams F1 Team
Formula 1 racing is an incredibly expensive sport. It was, at least, until 2021 when the organization implemented a budget cap of about $135 million. It’s still expensive, yes, but before the cap teams were known to spend up to half a billion dollars per year to push as hard as possible to win championships. The money for this endeavour comes from Formula 1, the organization, but this is just a small amount distributed to every team. The rest has to be raised from sponsors, and raising $135 million from sponsors is not easy.
Because of the high costs of the sport, the sponsorships are equally as high. It is estimated that the cheapest sponsorship is $1 million per year, an ammount that doesn’t get you a lot - surely doesn’t get you a sticker on the car, and it’s rumoured that Rolex is paying up to $50 million to be the official timing partner of the organization. So, I was pretty shocked three years ago to see that Bremont, the independent British watchmaker, sponsored Williams, the legendary British racing team, to a tune high enough to get a prominent sticker on the car. I had no idea Bremont was doing that good. Good on them.
To mark this sponsorship, Bremont has already created two limited edition watches and is just now releasing the third. Since both companies are very British, it’s no surprise that they are doing so just a month before the British Grand Prix at Silverstone. It’s the Bremont WR-45, a limited-edition chronograph that is inspired by this year’s Williams Racing F1 car, the FW-45.
The watch has Bremont’s signature three-piece “Trip-Tick” construction, it’s made from stainless steel with a black DLC finish and measures 43mm in diameter by 16mm-thick, with 22mm lugs and an overall lug-to-lug profile of 50mm. Despite the fact that the crown and pushers that operate the chronograph don’t screw down, it has a 100 meter water resistance. Unlike previous Bremont Williams Racing watches, the dial fitted to the new WR-45 is black to match its case, and it has a tri-compax configuration and a date window within the 6 o’clock sub dial. The white register at 9 o’clock features a light blue hand and serves as a running seconds indicator for the time, while the other two sub-dials are fitted with white-finished hands. Additionally, the hours counter features a thin three-color ring in light blue, dark blue, and white surrounding its perimeter, and this serves as a subtle nod to the official colors of the Williams Racing F1 team.
Inside the watch is the brand’s Caliber BE-53AV automatic chronograph movement based on the proven ETA/Valjoux 7753. It has a frequency of 28,800vph (4 Hz) while offering users a power reserve of approximately 56 hours, while the rotor has been skeletonized to look like the wheels of the Williams F1 car. The watch comes on a black two-piece alcantara strap.
This will be a limited edition of 244 pieces and every watch is accompanied with a genuine wheel nut taken from one of the Williams Racing cars. It’s priced at $6,595.
4/
The Accutron Spaceview Gets First Major Update With Spaceview Evolution, But Keeps The Very Cool Electrostatic Movement
Accutron is one of the most familiar names in watchmaking. This Bulova model participated in the space race and was, reportedly, narrowly pushed out by the Omega Speedmaster to be the official NASA watch that will be worn on the moon, but the Bulova Accutron remained a beloved watch by many astronauts and was used in space. That’s why it was a bit puzzling when Bulova in 2020 decided to spin of the Accutron into its own brand. But the puzzle was put aside when Accutron introduced the gorgeous Spaceview 2020 with an open-worked dial and inspired by the original 1960s Spaceview. Now Accutron is introducing two new models called Evolution that do exactly that - evolve the Spaceview.
Just like the 2020 model, the Spaceview Evolution watches are housed in a 43.5mm polished stainless steel case that is 15.9mm thick. Where it differs from the previous model is in the movement. Not the movement they use, but rather the orientation of the movement - the entire thing is shifter 30 degrees, moving the crown to 2 o’clock, giving the watch a completely new look.
Accutron currently offers two versions of the Spaceview Evolution timepiece. One with a smoke-gray open dial, darkened metal outer ring, silver-toned hands, and a matte-black alligator strap. The other also includes a smoke-gray open dial paired with a silver-toned outer ring, metallic blue hands, and a shiny blue alligator strap. Both straps are genuine American alligator and are finished with double-press deployant clasps.
Inside the Spaceview Evolution watches is Accutron’s proprietary electrostatic energy movement. Essentially, the movement is home to twin turbines that rotate at rapid speeds with the motion of your wrist. Those turbines are located between two electrodes, which serve to capture the electrostatic energy created by the turbines and send them to an accumulator. The stored energy in the accumulator then powers two motors: an electrostatic motor (a world’s first) that drives the gliding seconds hand and a step motor that drives the hour and minute hands. The duo of motors are synchronized via integrated circuits and provide an accuracy rating of +/- 5 seconds a month.
The movement also has a power-saving mode, which kicks into gear after five minutes of inactivity with the second hand automatically halting at 12 o’clock. Although the seconds hand stays in place, the watch will continue to keep time as the hour and minute hands continue to move. To stop the power-saving mode and reactivate the seconds hand, you simply have to swing your arm up and down for about five seconds.
The Accutron Spaceview Evolution watches are priced at $3,950 and are available immediately for purchase.
5/
The New Vaer G5 Meridian Is A Flier GMT Watch Well Below The $1,000 Mark
At the moment, my favorite GMT movement is a highly modified Miyota 9015 which the microbrand Arken calls the ARK-9015DT and uses in their Alterum. It’s a crazy movement that works unlike any other GMT movment. Rotating the hands clockwise moves the entire handset, including the GMT hand, as well as both AM/PM indicator discs. However, moving the handset in the opposite direction will lock the GMT hand and its corresponding AM/PM indicator (left of the dial) allowing you to set the time difference between your local and home times. This means you can set the minutes to any time and just rotate the hour hand.
Other than that movement and, obviously, in house ones, there seems to be a consensus that it’s hard to beat the recently introduced Miyota Cal. 9075 movement which is an affordable option for those who want a “flier” or “true” GMT, which allows for an independently adjustable local 12-hour hand. And this exactly has been a request from millions of collectors and watch enthusiasts. The movement also allows microbrands like the LA based Vaer to slap these movements into watches that look great and are really affordable.
Vaer’s most recent watch is the G5 Meridian GMT and it’s an intresting proposition. At first glance, the G5 looks identical to their G7. That could be because it comes in a 39mm stainless case without a crown guard and 200 meter water resistance or the fact that they come in pretty much the same four colors - two models with black dials and either red/blue or black/blue bezels, along with an all-black PVD variant, plus a third stainless steel option that is fitted with both a green dial and a green bezel. However, while Vaer’s G7 GMT is a Swiss-made timepiece powered by the Sellita SW330-2 and priced just above the thousand-dollar mark, the Vaer G5 Meridian GMT is an American-assembled version that runs on the Japanese Miyota 9075.
The watch comes on two different straps or bracelets that connect to the 20mm lugs with integrated quick-release springbars. Since the G5 GMT was designed to be used in the water, a black FKM rubber tropic strap is the standard included configuration, as it is the most water-friendly option available for the model. For the secondary strap/bracelet option, buyers have the option of either a simple NATO or a nylon single pass strap — or opting for one of the premium leather straps or stainless steel bracelets in Oyster and Jubillee designs.
The official price of the Vaer G5 Meridian GMT is $799 or $849 if you opt for one of the premium strap/bracelet options. That’s a fantastic price that gives you more functionality for a traveler.
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On hand - a selection of reviews

1/
Review Of The ProTek Series 1010, The Official Watch Of The United States Marine Corps
2/
Hands-on With The The Delma Shell Star Titanium That Sheds Both Size And Weight
3/
In-Depth Reveiw of The Horage Lensman 2 Exposure — A Watch With A Photographic Cheat Sheet
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Watch Worthy - A look at an offbeat, less known watch you might actually like

The RZE Aspirare launches the brand into yet unexplored waters
Up until now, RZE have been quite conscious of their case sizes pleasing the majority of modern collectors who prefer conservative diameters. Their largest watch was the now-discontinued RZE Valour Chronograph at 42mm, with the sold-out Fortitude coming in second at 41mm. The new RZE Aspirare is bullish with its 44mm diameter, and untamed with a 53mm lug-to-lug that will absolutely demand some bravery to wear if you don’t have large wrists. Although the RZE philosophy has catered to the adventurous, the Aspirare is designed to be their most rugged project yet.
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People loved the Seiko Alpinist giveaway! That's why I'm doing a new one. This time, we're giving away four Hamilton Khaki Field Automatics in a color of your choice. Head on over to the newsletter if you would like to enter.
If you would like to receive some additional watch-adjacent content, as well as this news overview, every morning Monday-Friday in the form of a newsletter feel free to subscribe. However, there is absolutely no need for you to subscribe, as all the news from the newsletter is posted here. It is only if you want to receive a couple of daily links that are not strictly watch-related and want to get this news overview in your inbox.

Can overtorquing a barrel nut cause POI to shift to the right and high? I have an Areo Precision 16 inch upper thats printing so high right I cant zero my ACOG and I’m trying to decide if I need to rebarrel it or if it was just improperly assembled. I zeroed the ACOG on 2 other rifles to check that it wasn’t the problem and it wasn’t.
I reached out to Areo and they said they would send me a new barrel nut and it might have been somebody applying too much torque to the barrel nut when assembling it. It has an atlas free float handguard and the barrel is sitting pretty close to the center but it is around 1/10 of a centimeter tilted toward the right side.
I just don’t understand hand even too much torque could affect the barrel POI.

Sorry, I don't have any sound files. S211 (wagon) 2008 RWD.
I hear a faint clunking from the rear at times, as if something would be rolling around and bonking into walls. It does not occur upon cornering, or going over bumps. It seems more to happen upon acceleration or braking, but not consistently.
It is not loose items rolling around the cargo, I have removed everything and the clunking persists.
It does not seem to be the transmission/rear differential, because then it should happen every time I lay on positive or negative torque, no?
It does not seem to be the exhaust, I find nothing wrong when I look. The pegs it hanged on that are stuck into rubber bits corroded off (muffler is stainless, pipes and brackets are not = galvanic corrosion, brilliant! /s) so I have secured it with stainless pipe clamps. It did not make a noise after that, everything is still taut, so I don't see how that could be it.
The car recently passed inspection without any comments about the rear axis, and they do put it on a pneumatic shaking thing to see how the suspension is doing.
There is nothing wrong with the air bellows rear, they are quite new.
I suspect bushings of some kind, but my capacity for detecting such is limited. I tug and shake whatever arms and components I see, and they look to the eye to be solid.
So my question boils down to "Does anyone recognize this?"

So I drive a 2016 nissan frontier desert runner 4.0 2wd. I was able to find a repair manual for free on cardigan. Not sure how accurate that repair manual could be because it states that the torque specifications for the 4 bolts holding the wheel hub in place should be 44 foot pounds. That seems ridiculously low considering that those 4 bolts are on the larger side and hold the wheel hub on the nuckle and there is no axel nut to assist with this since it's a 2wd front wheel hub assembly repair. Any advice on how tight I should make these bolts? I plan on doing this repair tomorrow and would rather not have my wheel fly off going 70mph on the interstate. Any help would be much appreciated.

The little tiny hex hole in the top, to supposedly stop the shaft from spinning while you do up the top nut... it allows about as much torque through it as doing up an interior plastic trim piece before stripping and being useless. Thought I needed a new strut mount, but turned out the nit had just backed off like a half inch instead. Easy fix, but it's still basically just finger tight. I imagine next time I'm in there I'll grind a slot in the top to use a flat screwdriver instead. Any better ideas?

214k miles on my 2010 Prius. I have been hearing a series of pops coming from the front end when I start moving, or slow to a stop. It doesn’t seem related to brakes because I hear it when I start moving. The wheels have been off and on a few times during my process of assessing the issue, so it’s not loose lug nuts.
I have already replaced sway bar links and strut assemblies. I’m feeling like throwing in the towel and taking it to a mechanic, but thought I’d see if anyone here has had a similar experience. If it would help, I could add a video of the sound.
Any ideas?

A couple of weeks ago (may 22) my roommate had both of her back rotors replaced by Meineke. After a couple of days she started to notice a shake when driving the car. The shake got gradually worse until it was unable to be driven. Today(June 7) we took the vehicle back to the same place, where they said the front left rotor needed to be replaced. They claimed they never touched the front tires, but it was very clear that the lug nuts in the front left tire were not properly tightened. I am not wanting to pay the $700 it will cost to replace the rotor as it was clearly their fault, but I am unsure how to proceed. I have already talked to somebody there, and they claimed they hadn’t touched the front wheels. Another detail is that it had been driven around 500 miles since the last visit.

So I have a DDM4v7 Pro which I've found the ammo it likes and am quite satisfied with its performance. However, I really dislike the handguard and want to change it to a DD quad rail, similar to their mk12 (and yes mainly because of aesthetics).
However to put the DDM4 rail on, I have to swap the current rail's mounting bracket which is wedged into the barrel nut, basically it requires removal of the barrel assembly. My worry is that after removal and installing the new one that accuracy may be impacted.
I also don't have the tools to do it myself (no vice, no action ride, no workbench, no torque wrench capable of 55ft/lbs) So I would have to have a shop do it for me...which is mostly where my worry is I suppose.
So, am I worrying too much? AR barrels seem pretty straightforward with their installation, but I'm just uncertain that if I did change it that it could noticeably affect accuracy.

Hey All!
Just bought a 2023 Sonata Limited Hybrid only to discover there was no spare tire or kit, only the tire repair kit. There is a space for the spare tire, but my local dealers have been unable to locate either a spare tire or a kit for my car (Their catalogue ends with the 2018 repair kit). Looking at other alternatives such as buying a used tire from a tire store and a kit from an older model but hesitant because I'm not sure the lug nut size is the same (21mm for older models and unknown for my). Has anyone had a solution for this problem?
TLDR; My car didn't come with a spare tire kit and looking for solutions.

I’m am currently shopping for tires and wheels for my 2005 Elantra GT hatchback; I definitely want to change the rims and am thinking about buying tires with increased width and height , Wanted to know what’s the best place online and physical to shop for the 4 lug nutted wheels ?

Timestamp: https://i.imgur.com/y0k8PGz.jpg
Good afternoon, I’ve got some items here for sale today or for trade depending on what you’re into no offer is unreasonable hit me up!
Trijicon RMRcc, mounted never fired with Springfield Adapter Plate, love this optic wish it sat flush. $350
https://imgur.com/a/8ladoUi
Vortex Strike Eagle 5-25 FFP EBR 7C MOA BNIB never mounted was planning to put in on my rifle but got a mark 5hd instead. $750 $650
https://imgur.com/a/h3ItZqK
Burris XTR - II 5-25 FFP SCR MOA BNIB mocked up on rifle never torqued down, also got another mark 5hd instead. $750 $600
https://imgur.com/a/q3PpGLN
Tanodized Upper receiver, I believe it’s Anchor, catch and release from here $160 is what I paid.
https://imgur.com/a/V0onOlX
Geissele DDC Upper Receiver, it’s beautiful it matches one of my lowers pretty close however I do want a much more golden colored upper receiver or like burnt sienna buffer tube for reference in album. I am looking to trade for another DDC Upper receiver. $250 <- this is what I will let it go for but I don’t want to sell it I just want to trade this.
https://imgur.com/a/ybAJD9b
Things I’m looking for: DDC Upper Receiver (will purchase or trade for $160ish?) 6mm ARC Barrel (18-20) PWS ratcheting castle nut/ endplate Luna Black Upper Receiver
PayPal Preferred, No chats, Comment before PM

Rookie question: I've heard that when changing a tire you should use a torque wrench to avoid over tightening the lug nuts. It seems a little impractical, because a torque wrench needs to be calibrated every year or so, which is difficult for the average guy to do at home.
Am I missing something?